Gibraltar - 27 & 28 September 2024

27.09 - Gibraltar 

We were the only people in the car park when we left this morning. There was a fuel station at the top of the lane. All a bit tedious! You have to go inside and queue with people getting their coffees and cakes, then prepay for your fuel - so guessed at €60 - then the pump wouldn’t dispense. Had to go and queue again - she just repeatedly said the same (louder!) - general gist was that you couldn’t choose which grade of diesel you paid for - so the other pump did work…

Tintin drove for about an hour. Even our co-pilot/music had somehow lost Bluetooth, so had no sound until we’d figured it out!

We had an early lunch and got the bikes out. Long queues to get into Gibraltar. A scooter came up behind us in the queue and said follow me - so we went past lots of cars to go and get our passports stamped. 

Amazed at how busy everywhere is. Google maps says it’s not possible to cycle in Gibraltar - which makes it hard to get places. Did find the tourist information for a map. We were going to try and cycle up to see the apes. Separate people told us good luck with that! Even the way the tourist information guy told us to go, when we eventually found the street after asking about 4 different people - led to steps! Useless on our heavy bikes. 

Thought we’d go back to Main Street. There was a military parade, so watched that. Wanted to walk up Main Street, but due to said parade, there were signs that we couldn’t lock our bikes up. Ended up having a chat with a police officer, who after checking, said we could!

So many English shops - mainly booze, perfumes and jewellery!

Was pretty hot walking around. Collected our bikes and went for a quick swim on the Western beach. Only 6 miles cycling - but confusing ones!

Quick shower, then walked back from Spain into Gibraltar and we were picked up by Martin’s friends - Colin and Judith - and had a thoroughly lovely evening at their house. 

28.09 - Day 2 - Gibraltar 

Gibraltar has a population of about 33,000. It has been British longer than the United States has been American. However, the Spanish do want it back! It’s only about 5km by 2km. Does seem bigger! 

We’ve managed nearly a month away without being bitten - however last night I was bitten at least a dozen times, they got Tintin too. I have nothing good to say about that ☹️

So today, our mission was to complete what we failed to do yesterday!

Again, we queued up to get our passports stamped (six stamps in total!) - and because no planes were using the airport runway - we cycled across - all a bit weird!

We’ve cycled over 17 miles today - and it’s been quite hard work! Thank heavens for electric bikes. My phone says we’ve also done nearly 18,000 steps - it’s definitely telling fibs! Maybe the bumps we’ve ridden over have confused it!

After a very steep hill, we started off at The Pillars of Hercules where you can pay your £19 each - which covers everything you see all day. We were out and about for about 7 hours - long day for us. 

Last night we learnt that the car licence plates have GBZ - then a number going up to 9999 - and then a letter - think they’re on G now - plus you can buy private plates. 

I’m disappointed to read now we’re back in Dave that the Rock of Gibraltar is only 426m high. Felt higher!

We’ve had a day of abandoning our bikes, then walking to whatever… First up was the Windsor Suspension bridge. It spans 70m over a deep ravine with excellent views - which we’ve seen all day.

Major error, decided to go downhill to see the apes’ den - which was the best part for me! However, we later learned that it’s all a one way system - absolute rubbish sign posting. In fairness - we were the only people on bikes! It did mean that we continued the circuit - but then had to do it all again to see the bits we missed out on. A friendly member of staff didn’t recommend going the ‘wrong’ way - and having seen the size of the coaches and private cars - can understand why. I’m so impressed with the private taxi car drivers who go right to the top - it’s bumpy, very very narrow - and have to avoid the apes in places!

Anyway - back to the apes - the Barbary Macaques. Think there are around 200+. They used to be tattooed on their left rear leg, but they’re now microchipped. There are different ‘packs’ - with the top ones the most aggressive. They’re fed, have their own swimming pools, and are disease checked. They’re the only wild roaming monkeys in Europe and originate from North Africa. 

It was just so lovely to watch them playing around, especially with their young. 

This man got more than he bargained for when a couple leapt on him - we were warned not to have a rucksack on our back - better in front - they can open zips. He wasn’t so happy when he was bitten! Our friendly man said that a few weeks ago, an ape made off with a lady’s handbag - complete with 4 passports! He didn’t know the outcome. 

From there we visited the Great Siege tunnels. These were created to move armaments from one side of the rock to the other out of line of fire from the Spanish. 

It was surprisingly interesting and well laid out. 

The WWII tunnels were under renovation and a bit underwhelming - they were longer than the Siege tunnels - so didn’t really bother that much. 

Visited the Moorish Castle - was rebuilt in 1333 AD when Abu’l Hassan recaptured Gibraltar. 

Eventually found our way down into town - even that wasn’t straight forward! Both had fish and chips - not bad - think Cobo chippy wins though! £29. 

We then had to ride all the way back to the Pillars of Hercules to go back to see the bits we missed! 

First up St Michael’s Cave - what can I say - hopefully the photos show how spectacular it is. They put on a 4 minute show with lots of noise and colour. 

Last up the Skywalk. You can see three countries across two continents. 

From there, we climbed even higher. Were getting tired by this point!

Still had to cycle even higher, right to the top of the cable car - then finally downhill!

Quick stop off at Eroski (supermarket) on the way back as it’s Sunday again tomorrow. Really strange - has stuff from Waitrose - could buy Walkers crisps, Cadbury’s chocolate etc - but it’s essentially a Spanish supermarket, just about still in Gibraltar!

Had passports stamped again, and back to Dave. Had to go and ‘service’ Dave, as we need water to shower tomorrow morning!

So - on balance - I’m glad we’ve been and experienced a fair amount of Gibraltar - would I rush back - no! 

We’ve now travelled in quite a few countries - we have never been as confused as we have been here! Combination of duff information from the tourist information, not even convinced their map is correct, shortage of vital signposts - plus Google maps not working for bicycles - all didn’t really help!