Siena - 28 September 2022

Good job the restaurant was busy at lunch time yesterday - they only served ten of us last evening.  Another Swiss moho parked behind us, a couple with their three children - and three Italian men.

No nice welcome, quite austere inside. On the plus side, 1/2 litre of white frizzante - which was very nice - was only €5. We both had risotto, Tintin with courgettes and prawns, mine with porcini mushrooms and courgette flowers. Large portions - but…

Years ago, when we were in Venice we were probably lost down a little side street, and saw lots of gondolier men eating in a small, scruffy looking place - and we thought why not. They brought us fresh vegetables fried in incredibly light crisp batter, we said we hadn’t ordered anything - it was just to eat whilst they were cooking our risotto - which turned out to be the most oozy, creamy and delicious risotto.

So, with that in mind, last night’s didn’t come close!

Some reviews had said the desserts were good, Tintin had Tiramisu - which he said was good, I had gelato - average! €45.

Although we passed through their shop selling wines and olive oil - they didn’t interact in any way, so we just left.

Good sleep, dark and wasn’t much traffic.

This morning, we were going to Poggibonsi - had found a place - but then decided if we got our act together, we could whizz into Siena before the heavy rain that was due mid to late afternoon.

Tintin wanted to drive. Should only have been about an hour, but held up for about 20 minutes - must have been an accident, and lots of traffic diverted to avoid the section of the motorway. Interestingly enough, even though the signs were green, for autostrada, we didn’t have to pay anything. We’re parked in a large carpark on the outskirts of Siena (population 54,000). Only a couple of miles to cycle into the main square. But - what a hill to get up! I suppose that’s what happens when you visit medieval cities on hilltops!

We tried to leave our bikes on the Piazza del Campo - not allowed - a pleasant municipal policeman showed us where to move them to.

The Campo is the focus and lies at the centre of three main streets, which run through the terzi, or districts. Siena was one of Europe’s richest centres in the 14th century, but the Black Death in 1348 killed around 70,000 people, leaving around 30,000 - and it never really recovered.

Now it is famous for the Palio. Every year on 2 July and 16 August, the beautiful shell shaped piazza fills up. There is a three lap horse race ridden by 10 jockeys representing 10 of the city’s contrade, and is preceded by spectacular parades of contrade members in medieval costumes, beating drums and throwing huge silken banners in intricate patterns.

The nine segments into which the square is divided refer to the Government of the Nine Good Men which creates the shell shape of the square. At the bottom is a drain, closed by a bronze grate in the form of a bush. There were people trying to draw it!

At the top of the square is the Fonte Gaia, the fountain that brought water to the city centre in 1343, after almost ten years of excavation to create the very long underground barrel vaulted aqueduct - 12km long!

We then wandered off to the Duomo. Absolutely stunning! Tintin’s pictures show some of the detail in the facade - which has recently been restored. It was noon when we were there - very loud bells!

Thought about going in, but the queue for tickets was quite long, so gave it a miss, and just walked around to get a feel for the place.

Everywhere you walk, there are narrow little streets, some with very steep slopes.

We stopped off for a piece of pizza each. Absolutely delicious - just as it should be, no soggy bottom! (€7.50)

Walked down to the Porta Ovile, as I wrongly thought that’s where the Orto de’ Pecci was - oops - wrong! Anyway, found a nice old washing fountain, which now has goldfish in it! It started to rain about 1pm, but wasn’t heavy and didn’t last too long.

Tintin conveniently wandered into a gelato shop, he had cherry and I had Siena cream - both very creamy and good (€5.60).

We went back to the Campo and spied a bar with free seats overlooking the whole square. We were in!

Fabulous, Tintin had a Campari spritz, and I had a Bellini - served with some crisps - watching over all the crowds of people in the square. What could be better?! I know, all we’ve done today is eat and drink!

Collected our bikes, and made it to Orto de’ Pecci - which in the end wasn’t that wonderful - but it did have nice views looking back towards Siena.

Thereafter we rode around the outside of the wall enclosing Siena and back to Dave.

All in all, a very pleasant day - Siena has a nice feel to it. Neither of us wanted to go into museum or churches - just happy to be.

They are doing scooter training in the large carpark we’re in - entertaining. Plus the sky is very dark grey and heavy looking - the promised rain will come soon!