Spoleto then Narni - 2 October 2022

Seems the background noise of Italy is barking dogs at night! No overhead lights to bother us last night, and slept well.

Was quite a lot of noise this morning, surprising for early Sunday morning. We were out and about by about 9am. Ah - two really cute, tiny puppies - all caged up. No blanket inside their wet kennel, one of their other dogs, an Alsatian? didn’t even bark at us or wag it’s tail when I approached it. Not sure they have a good life here… just makes you want to take them all home and smoother them with love and affection!

Anyway, the reason for the noise was a huge ‘antiques’ market just a street away. We went for a wander, lots of stalls and people, some even buying. Not sure what their definition of antique is, we often think of something more than 100 years old - some stalls just displayed items looking worn and old!

Tintin driving today. Our big missions were to buy some LPG (GPL) as we only have one ‘blip’ out of eight - plus Dave needed servicing.

On route, we found a place selling LPG, I was going to prepay, Tintin was ready with his gloves and adapter, but a man came out to question us. He went back inside to check (?), and using Google translate asked for the vehicle documents, plus Tintin handed the gas safety certificate. He then asked what we were using the gas for, we said heating and running the fridge. He asked if we used it for cooking, I’m afraid we lied and said no. Otherwise, we won’t be able to continue in Italy. We’ll probably have to fill up a couple of more times in Italy, and will probably face the same problems again. We understand the problem is that cooking gas is taxed differently, and we think Italian moho’s have a gas bottle they replace, not a refiiable underslung tank like ours… anyway - success - was only €13, think the man was surprised the tank was full with so little! In France - no such ‘problem’.

Next stop, Spoleto (population c38,000) - only about 30 minutes drive. Managed to ‘service’ Dave for free again. Think there were lots of biting insects around the water there, maybe flies rather than mosquitoes - but both bitten again 🙁

We did about 6 miles cycling - but up, down, down steps! Lots of one ways, rubbish road surfaces - and many, many confused looking people!

Up the hill in the old town we found the cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta in a nice open piazza. There was a service going on inside, so didn’t stay long. Unusual to see so much white on the walls, and chandeliers.

Next we rode up to the Rocca, a fortress complete with crenellations, towers and soaring walls which was build in the late 14th century.

Also saw the Ponte delle Torri, a magnificent medieval aqueduct, whose 10 arches span the Tessino gorge - built towards the end of the 13th century.

It was confusing to get back, even though it was all downwards!

Had crackers and cheese in Dave - couldn’t face eating lunch out again - too full for the rest of the day!

On the road again, the carpark in Spoleto wasn’t inspiring, and certainly didn’t want to spend the night there. We stopped off for diesel - another prepay of €50.

Have to say that everything seems more full of life in Italy - more people about, and shops open, even on a Sunday.

Tintin drove for about an hour, we’re parked up near the ruins of the Roman Augustus bridge, by the Nera river in Narni (no Tintin, not Narnia!).

The bridge was first damaged by an earthquake in 847, whilst a partial collapse was the result of a huge flood in 1053. Another flood in 1885 washed away the surviving arch.

Went for a walk in the bright blue sunshine. Also changed into long trousers with trainers - big possibility of mosquitoes here by the water!

We were thinking of driving to Orvieto before going to Rome - but a long drive - potentially just to see another cathedral!

So, we’re waiting for confirmation that we can stay on a much recommended Agricamper, convenient for the train into Rome, with a view to going in on Tuesday and Wednesday - as we’ve found and read that many places close on a Monday. Now the research begins!