Tudela then Zaragoza - 13 & 14 September 2024

13.09 - Tudela and then Zaragoza

So, I’d planned our day (!) - then Tintin does the important part of programming Co-pilot! He was driving today - less than 30 minutes for part one. 

Thought we should stop off on our way - in Tudela. I’m glad we did! Free parking quite near the old town. This is the capital of Navarre’s Riberia region, especially known for its market gardens. 

The main square - Plaza de Los Fueros was lovely and open. A market was setting up, bought 2 lemon doughnuts as they looked good €1 each - but very average! 

No map today, but we found the Cathedral of Santa Maria. It was built around 1180 on the site of an old mosque. 

We’ve said it before, we’re not religious - but if we want to see great old architecture it seems to revolve around churches and cathedrals…

From there we walked up to the statue of Jesus. It’s really quite large - see photo with Tintin in for perspective. From up here - great views over the market gardens, River Ebro and Tudela itself. 

There was a photo exhibition - so snapped a few photos - but dare I say it - was too sunny, so too much reflection! Was very sunny today - maybe 22/23° - but incredibly windy. 

On the way back to Dave we poked our heads into a sort of cafe and found they sold bread - which we’d been looking for. We also bought some Spanish omelette - and had that for lunch before driving off to Zaragoza - which took about an hour. Again - free parking with services - counted about 90 mohos parked up on our way back to Dave after our adventure out!

It was another cycle day - only about 6 miles. We could have caught the tram - but easier to be self reliant! 

Most of the places didn’t open after lunch until 16/16.30. We started off at the tourist information. We were lucky to lock up our bikes in the ‘proper’ place - but so few for such a large place. Zaragoza has a population of about 661,000! 

Started off with La Seo - San Salvador cathedral as it opened first. We bought a combined ticket to visit the cathedral and then to go up in the lift of the tower of the basilica - was €19 for both. 

Not sure we knew what we were letting ourselves in for! We had audio guides. Took about an hour - not sure either of us could tell you much about the history! Also - we weren’t allowed to take photos. As some people were quite blatant about taking photos - I took some discreet ones too! 

Apparently this cathedral is Zaragoza’s finest work of Christian architecture, built between the 12th and 17th centuries and displaying  a fabulous spread of styles from Romanesque to baroque. It stands on the site of Islamic Zaragoza’s main mosque, which itself stood upon the temple of the Roman forum. 

Our allotted time for the lift was 17.30 - so off we went. The lift whisks you up 98m - then you can climb the last few flights of stairs to the top. I’m not sure it added a lot to our experience. At the very top it had plastic windows all around, so a bit ‘murky’ looking, then further down, there was netting across all the windows - which shows in all the photos!

From there we finally went inside the Basilica del Pilar - free! Again - no photos allowed - really don’t know why - and no one around to enforce it!

The faithful believe that here on 2 January AD40, the Virgin Mary appeared to Santiago (St James the Apostle) atop a pillar of Jasper. We saw loads of people queuing, kneeling down and kissing and touching - hygienic - not! I really don’t understand religion!

I’d wanted to visit La Aljafería palace - but - it was nearly rum o’clock! In fact we were 30 minutes late for our allotted time! Maybe tomorrow…

Over 10,000 steps again. 

14.09 - Day 2 - Zaragoza 

Considering the amount of mohos here - last night was really quiet. 

Had a slow start to the day - as nothing really opens until 10am. It was only about 13° this morning. The weather has looked the part all day - bright blue skies - but deceptively cold in the shade or breeze. 

Bikes out again - nearly 8 miles today. Rode to the Aljafería Palace and found a place to lock up our bikes. Entry was €5 for me, and only €1 for the other one! There were security guards scattered around, even bag scanning to get inside! 

The Aljafería is Spain’s finest Islamic-era edifice outside Andalucía. It was built as a fortified palace for Zaragoza’s Islamic rulers in the 11th century. It underwent various alterations after 1118 when Zaragoza passed into Christian hands. In the 1490s the Catholic monarchs - Fernando and Isabel tacked on their own palace. From the 1590s it was developed as more of a fortress. Aragón’s regional parliament has been housed here since 1987. 

Enough words - the photos should suffice! Have to say, I like the geometric order and symmetry. Arches and alabaster carvings were definitely a thing! Some fantastic ceilings too. And - very good price admission 😊

Decided to cycle back towards the old town and try to find somewhere for tapas. After being in and out of a few establishments - made our decision, as the welcoming lady spoke English! She made us a ‘wine cocktail’ - using some French grapefruit syrup, then added ice and fruit to the rose wine - was actually like nice. Tintin tried sardines with peppers, I tried a ham ‘thing’ and we shared a slice quiche and a slice of Spanish omelette - all very tasty - €20. Can’t get my head around the idea you have a glass of wine, eat little bits of food - before going for lunch…

We wandered around some of the shops for a while. Neither of us have a new wardrobe - just couldn’t really be bothered! 

Sat inside a church for a while as there was a wedding going on. Just wanted somewhere to sit in the shade 😉

Rode back here and spent the rest of the afternoon reading books - moving from the shade (too cold) and into the sun (too hot)! 

Happy Birthday Hercules! 🥳