Autumn 2022

Vieste then Cagnano Varano - 25 October 2022

Lovely last night, falling asleep listening to the sound of the sea lapping on the shore…

Actually saw the sunrise this morning - we’ll go with we’re not usually in the right location, rather than not usually up! Was at 7.30am. Had breakfast in bed as usual, then went for a swim - beach deserted - most enjoyable. Lovely way to start the day.

I’d done some research about the Monte Sant’Angelo, which a lady called Sarah had told us about when we met on the Agricamper when we went in the gyrocopter. We decided not to go, the roads looked very exceptionally windy! Anyway, I thought it was interesting - so have included the information below!

“7 Sanctuaries linked by a straight line: The legendary Sword of St. Michael

A mysterious imaginary line links seven monasteries, from Ireland to Israel. Is it just a coincidence? These seven sanctuaries are very far from each other, and yet they are perfectly aligned.

The Sacred Line of Saint Michael the Archangel represents, according to legend, the blow the Saint inflicted the Devil, sending him to hell.

In any case, it is surprising how well these sanctuaries are, in fact, aligned. But the details of such alignment are also astonishing: the three most important sites, Mont Saint Michel in France; the Sacra of San Miguel in Val de Susa; and the Sanctuary of Monte Sant’Angelo in the Gargano are all the same distance one from the other. Some say this is a reminder from the Holy Archangel: the faithful are expected to be righteous, walking the straight path.

If all this was not surprising enough, the Sacred Line also is perfectly aligned with the sunset on the day of the Northern Hemisphere’s Summer Solstice.”

Today we’ve been driving around on Italy’s spur in the Gargano Peninsula. There is evidence of Stone Age settlements here some 20,000 years ago. In the 13th century castles and watch towers were built along the coast to fend off pirates and Saracens. This was followed by invasions from the Normans, Angevins and Spanish, and in the 17th century, the Turks. In 1979 a campaign to save the peninsula from the threat of real estate development began, leading to the creation of the Gargano National Park in 1995. Aside from the ‘resorts’ - it’s just a mass of olive trees!

Me driving today - about an hour - uphill, downhill, hairpin bends - all good fun! Parked up before our actual parking place, as all the payment meters have been taped up, meaning we could park along the front in Vieste for free. On the beach is the Pizzomunno limestone monolith. Strange to see trees growing out the top!

We went walking - uphill, downhill - bit like the driving. The castle is all closed off - being used for military purposes at present. We found the 11th century cathedral with its painted ceiling, built on very steep steps! Wandered down to the sea front, then up and over the other side to the marina. It’s a popular resort, but I guess we’re not seeing it at its best - just out of season. No gelatarias open here today!

We found a ‘bread’ shop - and bought some focaccia with rosemary potatoes (€2.70) - very chewy - but we enjoyed that for lunch.

Walked back to Dave, via a Conad supermarket, and Tintin wanted to drive - felt the need for ‘mountain’ driving. It was all going so well - we were going to park up near Peschici, a little fishing village. Um, no! the road leading to the parking place was closed! We thought we’d wing it, and see if we could find somewhere else to park. Tried towards the port - no mohos allowed, luckily enough space to turn around. Co-pilot has been a bit confused today! Gave up, and decided to drive on.

Lovely roads at first - big, wide, good surface - hardly any traffic - then Tintin had his wish fulfilled - lots of hairpin bends for miles and miles! Met a few trucks and a bus too!

I really don’t know how long he drove for in the end. We were trying to get to where we are now, and failing. Co-pilot sent us a strange way, stopped on a random bit of ground, regrouped, tried again - was trying to take us under a bridge - I got out, and really didn’t fancy our chances - it might have been ok - but the road went up towards the end of the bridge - didn’t want to risk it. Haha, thought we’d just find another Park4night place nearby. Didn’t happen - we both spent ages looking, getting more and more disheartened - so many bad reviews (not just noise, or rubbish - but break-ins) or just not possible in a large moho. The nearest one that might have been suitable was nearly another 2 hours away - by which stage it would probably have been dark. Tintin looked at the map, and ignored Co-pilot - and we’re now parked where we should have been! It’s overlooking a huge lake called Lago di Varano (still on the spur) - near a football stadium.

We could hear bells, and then a whole load of goats and sheep, being herded by a couple of dogs and a man came past - lovely to watch. Bet the ones with the bells get fed up with the constant jangling!