Spring 2024

Lauterbrunnen Day 2 - 12 April 2024

12.04 - Jungfraujoch - Top of Europe

Up at 6am - not even light yet! Think the bread rolls I used to make lunch today were even worse than the bread yesterday!

So, we caught the cog wheel train from Lauterbrunnen train station at 8am. We were actually 20 minutes early - but didn’t know how long it would take to walk there - better early than late!

Our hearts sank as we saw crowds of Asian tourists with their tour guides…

The train went through Wengwald, Wengen, Allmend, Wengernalp and we changed at Kleine Scheidegg. From there up to Eigergletscher (2,320m). At Eismeer (3,160m) there is a 5 minute stop to view the panoramic views, then everyone back on the train!

Last stop at Jungfraujoch - Top of Europe at 3,454m - this is the highest altitude railway station in Europe, which is covered in snow, even in summer.

You start off on the ‘Discovery Tour’ which lasts about 90 minutes.

I’ll start off with the negatives! The 360° cinema was 5 minutes long - and very average. The Alpine sensation was just tacky. We had wanted to hike out on the snow to the Mönchsjochhütte (a mountain hut where you can eat/drink - about 35 minutes hike each way) - but no - closed. And worst of all - the waited for Lindt experience - also closed! What did we pay all that money for?! Can I ask for a refund? 😉

After the cinema you take a mega speedy lift to the Sphinx Terrace (3,571m). It was -3 today. Took too many photos through the glass before going outside! Inundated with Korean tourists again (Tintin spoke with their tour guide) - they just barge you out the way and take forever taking photos - mainly of themselves not just the scenery.

In the actual Sphinx building is where scientists make valuable contributions to the study of climate and environment.

From the terrace you can see the Aletsch Glacier. It’s 22km long, 900m thick and twice as wide. Here 12 billion tonnes of ice lie over 80 square kilometers. Also, from there - and if we knew where we were looking - we should be able to see Italy, France and Germany!

We both felt a little dizzy and a bit headachey - but not all the time.

Next up the tacky Alpine Sensation which then moved us along on escalators to see the creation of the Jungfrau railway.

The Ice Palace was very good. Everything from floor to walls to ceiling is made of ice. There were around 30 carved sculptures. Surprisingly, the floor wasn’t slippery - looked as if it should be, perhaps they coat it with something?

We struggled because of an influx of screeching other tourists - so simply waited until they’d gone through. Favourite was probably the dragon - very clever! The temperature has to be kept below freezing year round.

Next the Glacier Plateau. Again - too many other people! And this is low season! Spectacular views. The photos will show more than I can! It was cold, despite the sun - our fingers had trouble taking photos!

Lastly were the shops and the restaurants. So disappointing the Lindt Swiss Chocolate Heaven was closed for ‘alterations’. The only good thing is we were given one free chocolate each - and a leaflet to visit the chocolate tour just outside Zurich.

We felt cheated that we hadn’t really experienced the snow - and wanted to get away from the crowds. With that in mind we spoke to the very pleasant train conductors about walking. We got off the train at Eigergletscher to walk down to Kleine Schneidegg.

We had been chatting with a lovely couple from Melbourne, who decided to get off with us for the walk.

I think it was the best part of the day! We both had our Yak-Trax to try for the first time (you put them over your boots to stop you slipping in snow and ice). The couple didn’t have them - but coped really well. So nice to see people skiing and tobogganing. It was bright, bright sunshine - enough that we needed to take off layers and put on sun cream! Took maybe an hour to enjoy all the scenery whilst walking down.

From Kleine Schneidegg we decided to carry on walking. It wasn’t quite so good, as we were obviously going down, so the snow became softer and the scenes not so white - but only 30 minutes or so. Another day in excess of 17,000 steps - not bad for Tintin who is due to have his other hip replaced!

On the train back from Wengernalp to Lauterbrunnen we chatted to Elvis! a lovely pure breed Collie - and his owner (!) who spends part of each year in Wengen.

The waterfalls near here are actually the Staubbachfall which we go past to and from the ‘town’. I need to visit them tonight, as they’re are illuminated.

We went back to the lovely friendly receptionist at the campsite to tell her about our couple of days - as she’d given us all the ideas. We were quite pleased to sit down in the shade back at Dave and take off our boots. The first time the awning has had an airing this year too.

We’ve spoken to more people in our week in Switzerland than we do for a month in France - I guess there are so many tourists all coming to see the same things…

So, the plan is to go to the campsite restaurant for a pizza - we only had avocado salad last night - think my husband wants some real food…